Rosette Beading
by Jim Clarke

Rosettes are usually found at the end of headband on bonnets; however, they can be used on bustles, roach-tails, and on corners of aprons. Beading rosettes is usually done by the appliqué method, using two needles and threads. The first is used to string the beads on to the thread; the second needle and thread is used to sew the first thread down to the fabric. It is not necessary to have beads all the same size for this type of project. In fact, odd-sized beads come in very handy throughout the project.

I use a material called buckrum to make rosettes. It is usually found in the drapery area of the fabric store. The buckrum is about 3 1/2" to 4" wide, comes in a roll and is usually sold by the yard. If you cannot find buckrum, any stiff fabric will do.

Start by selecting 3 or 4 colors of beads plus white as a background. Choose any color to start, and begin in the center. Using the first thread, sew the first bead on the center of the fabric using an X-shaped pattern. Now string 6 or 7 beads on the first string, place these beads around the center bead, adding or taking beads off the string until you have a circle of beads around the center bead. Using the second thread, sew the first string down in 3 or 4 places. The next row of beads is fitted around the first row, using the same color as the first row. Again, add or subtract beads as needed. Now use the second string to sew down the first string every 2 to 3 beads.

Now starts the color change. Begin the third row of beads with a new color. Then add 3 beads of the first color, followed by one bead of the second color. Continue in this manner until you have a full new row of beads to go around the last row of beads. It is not necessary to have an even number of sets. Sew this row of beads down with the second thread as before. On the next row of beads, add more beads of the second color so that there are about three beads of the second color above each bead of that color on the row below. You will be using less of the first color of bead in order to add more of the second color. As you continue with the next rows of beads, you will find that there is fewer beads of the first color, until you have a row of beads that are all the second color. At this point, start with the third color. Add the third color in the same manner that you did the second color. Again one bead of the third color, three beads of the second color until you have a complete row of beads. You will notice that there are more new third color beads than you had for the second color. This is because there are more beads in this row than there were before.

Continue in this manner until you are about 1/4" from the outside edge of the material. Now sew both threads in and out of the material several times ending on the bottom of the buckrum. Cut the buckrum into small wedges, and glue it to a circle of leather or heavy felt. The leather in turn is attached to your project.

I have included a couple of illustrations for this project. The first shows the beading thread and the sewing thread. It also shows how to end each row of beads. The second shows a star pattern described in this article. By the time you finish, you will have learned that there is a great difference in beads. If the threads have not been pulled too tight the rosette will be flat.. If the design is wobbly, it will mean the beads were not carefully picked. It takes practice and patience to do a nice job. There is nothing more gratifying than to be able to say, "I made it."